Korean cuisine has a long history and tradition, known for its flavors, health benefits, and beautifully arranged table settings. The essence of a Korean meal is the careful presentation of rice, soup, and various side dishes, creating harmony on the table. While meals are now often shared around a table, the traditional Korean dining culture originally followed the principle of dok-sang (individual serving). This unique bansang culture led to the creation of various types of soban—small wooden tables used for individual meals—crafted in different designs based on materials, shapes, and regions.
The Design of Soban
In Korea, all types of meal tables are generally referred to as soban. The tabletop shape determines its classification, such as square, hexagonal, octagonal, and dodecagonal soban. The legs also influence naming, including gujokban (dog-leg table), hojokban (tiger-leg table), and majokban (horse-leg table).
- Gujokban has outwardly curved legs, ending inward in a strong base. This design is simple yet exudes a rustic, masculine charm.
- Hojokban features a dynamic "S"-shaped curve on its legs, creating an elegant and imposing appearance. Traditionally used in royal palaces for ceremonial purposes, it became more widespread among common households during the late Joseon period.
- Majokban has legs shaped like horse hooves, widely used from the late Joseon dynasty through the Japanese colonial period. It remains the most common leg design in modern household tables.
Soban in History
Soban served both as a dining table and a portable tray, allowing meals to be conveniently moved between rooms. Its small size—about 40–50 cm wide and 25–30 cm high—made it easy for an individual to carry. Due to Korea’s spatial efficiency, soban was used flexibly in daily life, reflecting practicality and cultural uniqueness.
The Transition from Individual to Shared Dining
Starting in the 20th century, the traditional dok-sang method came under criticism for its inefficiency. As industrialization and urbanization progressed, families and restaurants embraced gyoja-sang (shared tables), allowing multiple people to dine together.
"By abandoning the individual meal system and gathering the entire family at one dining table, a warm and friendly atmosphere can improve appetite. Even with fewer side dishes, there are fewer complaints, and leftover food is minimized, solving the problem of food waste."
— Dong-A Ilbo, January 1, 1936
Regional Characteristics of Soban
The design of soban varies by region, reflecting the distinct characteristics of each area. While Haeju (Hwanghae Province), Naju (Jeolla Province), and Tongyeong (Gyeongsang Province) are widely recognized for their craftsmanship, other regions have also contributed to the diversity of soban styles.
- Tongyeong Soban: The Standard for Dining Tables
- Crafted with an integrated tabletop and rim.
- Features grooves in the tabletop where legs are directly inserted.
- Reinforced with horizontal crossbeams between the legs, enhancing durability.
- Its sturdy and practical design has become the standard model for modern dining tables.
- Naju Soban: The Beauty of Lacquer
- Made by separately crafting the rim and attaching it to the tabletop.
- Legs are connected through curved brackets (ungak), offering a strong frame.
- Distinguished by its deep, rich reddish lacquer that exudes elegance.
- Haeju Soban: Aristocratic Aesthetic
- Similar tabletop construction to Tongyeong soban, but features side panels supporting the legs.
- Additional curved brackets enhance its structure, though it lacks horizontal reinforcements.
- Notable for its ornamental elements, radiating a noble and decorative charm.
- Gangwon Soban: Rustic Yet Sturdy
- Has paneled legs resembling Haeju soban but with simpler decoration.
- Avoids elaborate carved patterns, embracing a straightforward and practical design.
- Yecheon Soban: Elegance in Form
- A variant of the hojokban (tiger-leg table), known for its exceptionally long and slender legs.
- Often referred to as hakjokban (crane-leg table) due to its refined and delicate appearance.
Soban as a Symbol of Life’s Sacred Moments
Beyond its practical use, soban held deep spiritual significance in Korean households. From birth rituals to death ceremonies, it played a central role in various life stages.
- Childbirth Rituals:
- During labor, a jiyang-sang (prayer table) was set up with rice and purified water, symbolizing wishes for a safe delivery.
- After birth, the first meal—including rice, seaweed soup, and purified water—was presented to the Samsin deity before the mother’s meal.
- Marriage Customs:
- Wedding documents (saju and honseoji) were received on a soban.
- The groom carried a ham (gift chest) and received a yogi-sang (pre-wedding meal) at the bride’s home.
- A jeonan-sang (table for presenting geese) was prepared during the wedding ritual.
- Household Protection & Ancestral Worship:
- Dedicated tables such as seongju-sang (for the household guardian) and joseon-sang (for ancestors) honored spiritual traditions.
- Women often prayed for their family’s well-being by placing purified water on a soban, much like the mother in Chunhyangjeon who prayed for her son’s success in the state examination.
This soban culture, deeply embedded in daily life, reflects Korea’s reverence for balance, harmony, and tradition.